Peter's, at about 9 o'clock: no stranger can receive a palm without
a permission signed by _M. Maggiordomo_. In the afternoon the Card.
Penitentiary goes at about 4 or half past 4 to S. John Lateran's,
where the Station of the day is held.
On the _afternoons_ of _Wednesday_ and _Thursday_, (between 4 and half
past 4) and of _Friday_ (half an hour sooner) the office of Tenebrae
begins at the Sixtine chapel. After it is over, you may go to S.
Peter's to bear the conclusion of a similar service: there on Thursday
evening the high-altar is washed by the Card, priest and chapter;
on Friday the Pope, Cardinals etc. go thither to venerate the relics
after Tenebrae in the Sixtine chapel; and on the afternoons of both
days the Card. Penitentiary goes thither in slate. In the evening of
these three days the feet of pilgrims are washed, and they are served
at table by Cardinals etc. at the Trinita dei Pellegrini.
On _Thursday morning_ you can see the oils blessed at S. Peter's: this
ceremony begins _early_. There is little difference between the mass
(at about half past 9 or 10) in the Sixtine chapel on this day, and
on ordinary days, and there is generally a great crowd: the procession
after mass is repeated on the following morning; and the papal
benediction on Easter Sunday: your best plan therefore will be to go
at an early hour to see the blessing of the oils, and afterwards the
washing of the feet, at S.
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