We had heard much of
this place from the Lagoda's crew, who said it was the worst place
in California. The shore is rocky, and directly exposed to the
southeast, so that vessels are obliged to slip and run for their
lives on the first sign of a gale; and late as it was in the
season, we got up our slip-rope and gear, though we meant to stay
only twenty-four hours. We pulled the agent ashore, and were
ordered to wait for him, while he took a circuitous way round the
hill to the Mission, which was hidden behind it. We were glad of
the opportunity to examine this singular place, and hauling the
boat up, and making her well fast, took different directions up
and down the beach, to explore it.
San Juan is the only romantic spot on the coast. The country here
for several miles is high table-land, running boldly to the shore,
and breaking off in a steep cliff, at the foot of which the waters
of the Pacific are constantly dashing. For several miles the water
washes the very base of the hill, or breaks upon ledges and
fragments of rocks which run out into the sea. Just where we
landed was a small cove, or bight, which gave us, at high tide, a
few square feet of sand-beach between the sea and the bottom of
the hill.
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